Buying a boat
Know what you want, what to look for, when buying a used boat
We just bought a bigger boat—a 1970 Mariner 31 ketch. She’s quite a change from the 26-foot trailersailer that my wife and I dragged merrily around the continent, but the boat is something we’ve dreamt about for years. Besides, I’m now retired, the horizon is at our fingertips and we have all the time in the world.
We started by surveying the market to get an idea of the kind of boat we might want. This involved something of a reality check as we tried to match our dreams with what was available as far as price, size, performance, accommodations and location. For example, we discovered that prices jump exponentially with every increase in length, and all other things being equal, a 38-footer was going to be a good deal more expensive than a 35, which was itself more expensive than a 32, and so on. The same held true for age, although differences tended to be less significant once a boat reached 25 years old or more. As a consequence, we decided that it would be wiser to play it safe and focus on a smaller, if not older, well-found boat that we could afford.
Once we had a reasonably good idea of the kind of boat that best matched our budget and our ideal, we surveyed the Internet for photos and specs to see what might be available. We found that www.yachtworld.com, www.boats.com and www.usedboats.com were especially valuable as resources, although most of the listings we found didn’t fit our profile. Some boats might have been very seaworthy but were too homely to have much appeal; some were strictly for lake sailing; some were too high tech; some were little more than floating RVs; and some were so tender that they were strictly for madmen.
Sometimes, the wording of the advertisements offered clues about the condition of a boat. For instance, we suspected that “great liveaboard” probably meant that the boat was just too tired to be sailed very much; “Hawaii veteran,” “Mexico veteran,” and the like probably indicated that a boat had possibly been sailed long and hard and was likely in need of a refit. Although “owner motivated” probably meant that the boat was available at a price below its market value, it also suggested there may have been some reason that the boat was difficult to sell.
Boats that had been listed for a long time also raised suspicions. I recall seeing an ad for a gorgeous Ericson 35 that had run for months, even though it seemed perfect in every way—at least from the specs and photographs. A friend eventually checked the boat out for me, and it turned out it had far too many blisters to make it worthwhile.
We found that most production models have an owners’ Web site loaded with information about the boat’s strengths, necessary upgrades and common repairs. In fact, I was quite surprised at the amount of information offered by the Morgan, Ericson, Mariner, Hunter and Catalina sites. We also found a good deal of information in articles and brokerage ads in popular sailing magazines, including SAILING.
Narrowing the search As we continued our search, we developed a list of specific requirements that were especially important to us. Since my wife and I are a bit older, and not quite as muscular as we were in our 40s, we were very concerned about the sailplan and ease of performance under sail, which is one of the reasons that we eventually settled on a ketch. We also did not want so much sail that it would prove our undoing in a high wind, nor did I want anything that was so tender that it could not be sailed when the winds piped above 15 knots.
We also love comfort, so we took a close look at interior layouts, including the galley, the layout of the saloon table, sleeping quarters and storage. We were also concerned about the head, as our trailerable’s porta potty was rather cumbersome and would hardly be sufficient for extended cruising.
Once we narrowed our search to a short list of five or six boats, we prepared to go boat hunting. We found that it was to our advantage to have the necessary financing in order before we began our search, although the majority of brokers were in a position to offer advice and help concerning finances had we needed it.
Kicking the tires In making our final decision, we concentrated on essentials such as the condition of the hull, through-hulls and standing rigging. Although first impressions can give a good idea about the general condition of a boat, we found that it was important to check each boat thoroughly and not be distracted by minor, cosmetic problems that could be easily remedied. This was especially important since our budget and finances dictated that we look at older, modestly priced candidates. Therefore, I made it a special point to check whether the through-hulls were properly clamped and in working order, and since the boats we looked at were older, I was especially interested in knowing when they were last replaced (I knew of a case where a boat sank shortly after a sale because the through-hulls were defective).
We also checked when a candidate was last re-rigged, since anything more than 20 years old was likely to be suspect. In any case, I checked the mast alignment and tension on all stays, made sure the swages were tight and absent of burrs, and checked the turnbuckles to see that they were locked and in good order. I also checked to make sure that the chainplates were watertight and showed no signs of stress (over-tightening might indicate that the boat had been stressed and raced extensively).
Although it was not quite as important to our safety as the standing rigging, I also checked the running rigging, including the blocks, tracks, goosenecks and winches, including the anchor windlass. This included making sure the sheets and halyards and mooring lines were not frayed and in need of replacement. Finally, I made sure that the sail inventory was sufficiently varied to suit changes in the weather, and I made sure that all of the sails were relatively stiff with a probable remaining lifetime of at least 10 years.
We also took a close look for signs of stress at the base of the mast (again, from over-tightening the stays), whether the stanchions were tight, and whether there were any signs of delamination at their bases. We also checked when a boat was last hauled and inspected, when her bottom was last painted and whether she had a minimum of blisters. Older boats are likely to have some blisters, but usually a few quick repairs can solve the problem.
We checked the steering to make sure it was tight, and we inspected the windows and ports for water stains, which might indicate storm damage or undue stress on the hull. It was especially important that the electrical systems and wiring be clean and orderly with no signs of jury-rigging or unsafe add-ons, as faulty wiring can easily cause a fire. We pulled all hatches and floorboards to make sure the bilges, oil pan and stuffing box were dry with no signs of an oil or fuel leak, and we checked all the tanks to make they were tight and in good condition.
Concerned about the engine, we first checked the service records and the number of hours it had been run since the last overhaul. Next, we checked the fuel bowl for signs of water and dirt, pulled the dip stick to check for excessive dirt or metal fragments and took an oil sample to be analyzed for signs of overheating, carbon buildup or excessive wear. After making a simple, overall visual inspection to check for leaks, gasket blow-by and the like, we required that it start without fail and without any noticeable smoke. We then ran it for at least an hour under load to check for vibrations, surging and overheating. We also checked to make sure the oil pressure was good, and the batteries were being charged and were clean and in good condition.
When it came time to make a decision, we debated whether we should go to the trouble of having the boat surveyed. Although this was a difficult question to answer, I have sailed a great deal and know something about boat systems. Since I was looking at a boat that was priced below $35,000, and since a recent survey was made available and revealed no problems, I opted to depend on my own experience to help me with a final decision. If there had been any doubts, or if the boat had been priced more than $50,000, I would have ordered a survey.
Closing the sale It may not always be easy to determine the relative value of a boat. Older boats are going to have older systems, and they should be evaluated accordingly. Even so, many sailboats that were manufactured during the 1970s and early 1980s were overbuilt, mainly because most of the early manufacturers did not know the durability of fiberglass. These boats were also likely to have a good deal more brightwork, since teak and other hardwoods were readily available at the time.
In negotiating a final price, I took into consideration some additional costs that might have been easy to overlook. First, I included the sales tax on my list of expenses. If I had ordered a survey, that would have cost an additional $300; hauling the boat to inspect through-hulls and bottom would have cost another $300 or more; checking the mast and standing rigging would have run another $200 to $300, and a complete engine inspection and analysis could have been costly as well.
Finally, we had to make sure that we had a slip where we could keep the boat. Most marinas will ask the new owner to move within a month of the sale. Fortunately, we were able to transfer ownership of the slip with the boat. Even so, we had to pay a damage deposit plus the first month’s rent (usually between $8 and $12 per foot).
Happily, however, we found that once we had bought our boat, we were on our way to pure ecstasy. In fact, just being aboard our new prize and not going anywhere turned out to be a joy and a pleasure in itself. And, after all, isn’t that what owning a new boat is truly all about?
